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Land of lace

Land of Lace

Darquer: The Ne Plus Ultra of Haute Couture

Seamstress with a Cornelly loom demonstrates textile finishing techniques on site at the Académie d’ArchitectureBeer foam, human tears, the ambiguous world of androgyny – no stone is left unturned in the imaginations of designers at Darquer, the oldest and most esteemed producer of haute couture French lace. Alongside Tears and Lace, a collection of haute couture lace based on a series of photographs called Topography of Tears by artist Rose-Lynn Fisher, Darquer recently showcased its future collections at Première Vision and the Académie d’Architecture at Hotel de Chaulnes in Paris.

Inside the Académie d'Architecture 

Tears and Lace by Rose-Lynn Fisher for Darquer Lace of Calais since 1840

Olivier Noyon and Rose-Lynn Fisher at the launch of Tears and Lace at the Académie d'ArchitectureAmong the marvels on display: 

1/ Innovative lace mohair lace that is incredibly cosy and compact. This felted lace will find its way into both summer and winter wardrobes, providing stylish protection against cool nights and the chill of sunless days. It can also be used for accessory pieces normally associated with bridal gowns, made unlined to highlight mohair’s soft, sensual feel. This felted mohair lace features Darquer’s famous medallion design and draws inspiration from its collection of 7­ point lace.

Mohair and felted lace

2/ Quirky lace is inspired by the airy, evanescent nature of beer foam. Conjured by Darquer Creative Director Frederic Rumigny, it recalls lace used in the 18th century known as «la Blonde», or «Pale Ale».  This quirky lace is essentially a raised cotton lace that can be split apart to create holes or loops, which allows the lace to be tied or twisted. This ancient and complex technique was brought back to life by Darquer designer Vincent Fasquel.

3/ Printed or rewoven lace finds its way into different Chantilly designs: some are printed with Scottish tartan and overlaid with reflective stripes, netting and/or tulle, and decorated with strips of Valenciennes lace (a romantic update to fluffy Neapolitan quilting); still others are made with swathes of bobbinet joined by raw­ cut gros grain ribbon and criss-­crossed by coppery braid. Thanks to newly-acquired bobbinet looms, this collection features over a dozen colors of tulle, from ice blues and deep blue ­blacks to a vast array of pinks.

4/ Lace for men  pairs the delicacy of lace with virility and an intentionally ambiguous androgynous look. 

Derby and Jallans

In addition to its collections, Darquer is offering a variety of new services: Its thousands of exceptional design and pattern archives that go back two centuries are now open to fashion houses. Many samples of expertly manufactured and carefully preserved antique Leavers lace can now be viewed and added to collections upon request. Darquer is also offering its own color library, with hundreds of gorgeous and carefully classified colors, from Maiden’s blush to Moorish brown.

Catalogues of antique lace that date back to the 1800's

A member of the Noyon Group since 1988, Darquer is revisiting its roots under the guidance of its president Olivier Noyon; Noyon has entrusted designer/artistic director Stéphane Plassier to shepherd and spotlight the innovations of this esteemed lacemaking enterprise.

More marvels from Darquer's permanent collection:

Gladiateur and Développement

Orleansville and Cheverny

Remouski and Papouasie

February 24, 2016 
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